Hell Valley in Noboribetsu

 

Sulphur Baths and Eel Lunch

[ An Ojizo-sama watches over forest visitors in Jigokudani ]

Today we drove south along Route 66 and then the Hokkaido Expressway (a toll road with no switchbacks) to see an enormous caldera lake (Lake Toya) and to visit the mineral hot springs in Noboribetsu, in the Shikotsu-Toya National Park.  My friend Polly helped me plan this day trip and I tried to document details so that she could see the fruits of her planning in my post today. 

[ Lake Toya - a volcanic caldera lake in the Shikotsu-Toya National Park ]

After that spectacular view of Lake Toya, we arrived at Noboribetsu and made our way to the hike through the forest to see the mineral hot springs steaming out of the earth. A map pointed out the various routes that we could take and we decided to follow a circle path through the forest that would eventually lead to a mineral footbath created by the hot springs run off in the forest. Small stone statues wearing read bibs, Ojiza-Sama, were tucked along the trail to guard over evil spirits or other calamities. I found their presence calming, especially when we came across what appeared to be bear droppings. After a decent uphill climb we made it to our first hot springs of steam coming out of the earth. There is a heavy sulphur content in the water (which is plus 50 degrees celsius) and well, the scent is pretty strong to be honest. The scenery was dramatic and the mineral pools were a stunning cerulean blue. There are several hotels in the town where you can go to soak in the natural mineral baths fed by the hot springs. The word Noboribetsu is from the Ainu language - the Ainu people are indigenous to Hokkaido.

[ Noboribetsu-onsen ]

[ The sulphur rock of hell valley ]

After taking in the sites we headed to the natural footbath that ran along a river bed in the forest floor. I was very excited about this - spa day! Wiley and Norah lead the way to a curve in the river where we found other tourists equally excited about soaking toes for a few minutes in a hot mineral spring. 

[ Hot mineral water foot bath ahead! ]

[ Seat cushion for spa time ]

[ A sibling moment ]

[ Better than Epsom Salts ]

After our spa time, we hiked along a grassy path through the forest to get back to town. We were the only people on the path as we wound our way along past lots of Ojiza-sama watching with a quiet eye. 

[ Forest magic ]

By the time we got back to town we were ready to eat some food. We stepped into Onsen Ichiba on the main street of the town to try some fresh eel and sea urchin. This tiny place was packed. Baskets of live seafood swam around in open tanks gurgling along the entrance wall. Our waiter took us to a table near the back and handed over our menus. The next ten minutes were spent pouring over the selections using Google translate! 

[ Our table ]

[ Abalone, scallops, and snails ]

[Sea urchin and a giant crab ]

Wiley was the most curious gourmand amongst us. He ordered sea urchin and BBQ eel. I ordered scallops, miso soup, and rice. Everything starts out alive and was then cooked fresh when ordered. Except the sea urchin which was served raw. I did try it. I would describe the taste to be quite similar to the smell of an aquarium. I think it is an acquired taste. 

[ Raw Sea Urchin ]

[ Eel BBQ ]

[ Scallops, rice, and miso soup ]

Our return to Niseko was mostly uneventful, except for when Wiley (the navigator) missed the turn for the toll road which sent us straight up a mountain, which I was trying to avoid. Even though it was not the route I had planned to take we were treated to a stunning drive on the return home. Only two high stress moments: first when climbing up the mountain on roads that were trestled above the tree line and second when we started the ascent through a steel tube that felt a lot like a roller coaster ride. 

[Driving on a trestle road above the trees ]

[ And now I'm on a roller coaster plunging at a 60 degree angle ]

Planning a quiet day tomorrow close to the volcano.