Okinawa Retro Vibes

 Miami + Puerto Rico

[ unfiltered vibrance ]

I am starting to get a sense of Naha City, on the main island of Okinawa, or at least some of its personality. Walking along the narrow streets of the city center, the buildings, the foliage, the heat, and the unfiltered vibrant blue sky make me think of my days in Puerto Rico as a student some thirty years ago. 

[ everywhere, color ]

The space feels Japanese and islander, living in the past and living in the present. Suffering from a little decay yet creative, human, and alive. 

[ painterly back streets and boulevards ]

Norah and I stopped by a tiny cafe for lunch that embraced this vibe I was feeling. The barista, wearing a Cuban summer porkpie fedora brewed brown sugar lattes from behind the bar. He served us hummus and tomato sandwiches on walnut whole grain bread while jazz standards filled the space with sounds of the 60’s.

[ jazz standards at Tasokare Coffee cafe ]

[ never say no to espresso and chocolate ]

[ this cup. ]

So glad to spend a few days in artful time suspended.

Hidden Gems: Lunch Spots

 J.’s Kitchen

[ Taco Rice Okinawa Style ]

Norah has a keen sense for locating delicious food made locally and served at very cute eateries. On the day we were in Motobu visiting the aquarium she found J.’s Kitchen at the end of a leafy lane just in time for lunch. We parked in the gravel driveway and were greeted at the door by one of J.’s cats who was crying loudly in an effort to get in. We let him in.

[ the leafy lane ]

[ J.’s Suzuki Jimny parked out front ]

There were four tables inside, two cooks in the kitchen, and J. behind the bar. All the tables were full but one. We were in luck!! Every detail - from the polished concrete walls and wooden tabletops to the handmade glass water tumblers and the Jack Johnson playlist - created a welcome vibe. We both ordered the Taco Rice, a fusion of Mexican and American food that references the significant population of American marines living in Kin Town and other military bases on the island. My plate was served with a dollop of pulled pork atop warm rice with a side of avocado, spicy salsa, and pickled cabbage on a bed of lettuce. I also enjoyed a homemade apricot soda.

[ what? No alcohol in here?? ]

Our meal was very fresh and tasty and J. And his cats were delightful. 

[ This is J. ]

[ J.’s cats ]

On our outing today Norah directed us to a tiny Korean bulgogi “deli” during a heavy downpour of midday rain. Once inside we were greeted by a young Korean couple who opened the shop last year and decorated it themselves. Extreme cuteness. Another hidden gem!!

[ very friendly and confident signage! ]

[ instagram ready interior! ]

We both ordered the bulgogi - marinated beef and onions, rice, kimchi, bok choy, and japchae. So good!

[ Korean bulgogi ]

[ Norah tucks in ]
  

Okinawa Small Delights

Naha City and beyond

[ View from the Miebashi Monorail Station ]

Norah and I arrived in Okinawa yesterday and settled into our downtown hotel for a few days before we head out to Miyakojima Island. Naha is a larger city than I anticipated with skyscrapers and busy streets. When we arrived the city was bathed in the late afternoon sun of the golden hour when everything shimmers in a pastel glow.

After a good sleep in our “compact room on a high floor” we got up early this morning, ate breakfast, and took a taxi to ABC car rental to pick up a car to drive up the coast. Our outing for the day today was to visit the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium in Motobu. 

[ Small ships anchored along the coast ]

We drove quite a way through urban sprawl along the coast before the view opened up to volcanic hills and the most beautiful cerulean sea. We passed inlets of ombré blues and greens and several resorts, sandwiched between humble towns, before reaching what Norah described as a thumb of land that housed the aquarium at its tip.

[ Norah and the deep blue sea ]

The aquarium was vast, with many buildings and lots of information about sea life in this part of the world. I was most interested in the exhibit on the many species of coral found in the coral reefs of the East China Sea and the Pacific Ocean surrounding Okinawa. 

[ Norah and a giant ray ]

On the way back to Naha we stopped at 21 Seikinomori Beach, a small local beach, so that I could put my feet in the water. There were lots of families picnicking under the trees along the water’s edge and two young men were playing the sanshin and singing. There were pieces of coral washed up on the shore - I felt kind of distraught to see this but I think that this is a part of the life cycle of the coral. Not sure - need to find out more.

[ Pieces of coral and lovely shells ]

Spring Arrival - Gardening Series

 

Battle of the Bush Begins

The Ditch

Finally, in May, Spring has arrived. And let's just say that my khaki coverall Dickies are my new best friend. The fabric is light and airy and my garden suit protects me from bugs from head to toe. I feel very modern frontier when wearing it. Norah has an outfit too. Hers in chic black worn here as she surveys the ditch in front of our house with ominous intent. This is the day that we beat back the ditch in an attempt to keep it cleared for the summer months. As I recollect from my arrival in Japan last year, these ditch weeds are gonna grow to about six feet tall. I really do not know who will win this battle. 

Before we got started - the birth of the weeds

I began this ditch quest by riding my bike around the neighborhood to observe what other people did with their ditch. Most people had theirs cleared of weeds and some had planted daffodils that have been popping out for the last several weeks. I realized that we had a lot of work to do to clear the rogue grapevines, dwarf bamboo shoots, and other wildin' greenery that were encroaching on the front of the house. We spent a full day chopping, hacking, raking, and hauling debris to the back field.

This is me talking to the sprouting bamboo

Norah was expert with garden tools while in the ditch. She is my big weed strong(wo)man. We pulled out as many roots as possible but I dunno...this ditch seems pretty hellbent on putting up a fight. 

Putting some muscle on the weeds

I forgot to take a photo of the end result of our labors. I can tell you, though, that we pulled out every single weed from the ditch before we were done. I will leave you with a photo of how it looks now, two weeks later...

I'm powering up the weed wacker

January 7 2024

 

What is the meaning?

preparing for second semester

I am having a moment. My adult children are giving me the gift of time, living under my roof for awhile. Their presence in my life, while I am on a journey myself that I do not totally understand, registers peace at a molecular level. Or something like this that I can't quite articulate. 

Today they are both working a nine-hour shift together at a nearby restaurant - Wiley in the kitchen with his collection of chef's knives, and Norah earnestly at the prep counter and front of house. Their stories in the late evening at home are funny and illuminating; I am learning so much from them. 

The nine-hour shifts gives me solitude at home, which I am easing into and remembering a time in my past when I had time like this to myself. I have been reading books, listening to music, and today working on lesson plans for second semester. I have listened to all of the grammy nominees for album of the year and am loving Lana Del Rey, Janelle Monae, and Jon Batiste. There is a jazz album as well, from Pat Metheny, that I can only describe as sublime. 

A blanket of snow covering the field out of my window, a fire in the fireplace, living in the moment with art and music as my companions today. The practice of solitude and independence feeds my soul. 

January 2 2024

 

Sapporo by Train

JR train approaching the Niseko station

A few days before Christmas, Wiley and I took the train to Sapporo to complete his work permit paperwork. I was so grateful to spend the day with him. We walked along Odori Park, visited the immigration building to complete his work papers, and ate lunch at a fabulous ramen noodle shop. 

Ramen shop, Sapporo

The shop reminded me of the book, The Little House, written by Virginia Lee Burton. The shop was tiny, weathered, and sandwiched between modern high-rises and city parking lots. The shop opened at 11:30 in the morning and we were the first customers in the door. 

Cozy inside!

By 11:45 the shop was full of business men in suits - all three tables and the counter were full. There was a cacophony of noodle slurping the entire time we were there. I live for these moments! One bowl of miso ramen and three gyozas later I was stuffed to the gills.

miso ramen

Before getting on the train to return to Niseko, Wiley and I stopped for a coffee in the train station. It was a small moment of peace and gratefulness to sit with my son and just be. 

💗

 

Book of Days 2024

 

January 1 2024

On Mt. Niseko-Annapuri

Last year my son gave me A Book of Days with photographs and writing by Patti Smith. I am reading it again this year because I love this book so much. I am going to attempt my own personal record of days this year. I started off the new year skiing with my family in Japan and it was a glorious, blue-bird day. I love being outside, living in the moment, and having my family - Tom, Norah, and Wiley within arms' length.  

Let's go, 2024!